Summer 2021 takes a 180-degree turn into the land of comfort and ease — at least, Saint Laurent’s version of those things. Not even Vaccarello is immune to the appeals of our era of social distance dressing.
It revealed its latest collection on Tuesday, designed by Anthony Vaccarello, using a 10-minute Vaccarello fashion film called “I wish you were here” and it was posted on social media platforms and according to the house’s official website on Instagram, in which we saw the models go one by one on an imaginary zigzag line, in the middle of the desert, not surrounding them. Except for sand dunes and clear skies, for a stunning mix of 1960s and mid-90s with chiffon, satin and feather velvet dresses, a blazer jacket with biker shorts, and puckish haircuts.
Saint Laurent declined to reveal the location, only saying it was a desert in the north. The house said the film was “an invitation for escapism”.
There were no spectators, no influencers or fashionistas, at Saint Laurent’s presentation of its 2021 Women’s Summer collection, only drone footage of models walking on the crest of a tall sand dune in the middle of a sunny desert. The looks were interspersed with some flowing dresses with floral motives. Many models sported YSL-branded mini belt bags.
Every year, France’s top fashion houses compete to find the most spectacular locations in Paris to host their women’s wear shows, but with catwalks closed, brands now try do outdo each other with spectacular locations for their online-only shows.
Already in the first wave of the pandemic in April, Saint Laurent, owned by the Kering conglomerate, broke away from the usual twice-yearly calendar of women’s catwalk shows in Paris.
So what can you expect from the collection? Well, for one, silk blouses paired by biker shorts are in. Not to mention, a vareuse with spacious pockets, a long jacket with tidy shoulders and pseudo austere jumpsuits that outlines the body without constricting it.
Other less practical options have also been in the spotlight like their lace and satin hot pants, alongside lightweight knits and button-downs for the right balance of comfort. Besides, in this digital age where we have no choice but to live with Zoom and virtual everything, no one sees anything other than your top half anymore.
The slick latex and jewel tones from February’s show gave way to bike shorts, lace hot pants, feathered negligee dressing and sculptural jewelry from Claude Lalanne. French collaborator Nathalie Canguilhem directed the panoramic film in a remote sandy oasis, with cameras capturing every detail and angle.
By the time this collection is available to buy, Vaccarello will be celebrating the milestone of his fifth anniversary at the house. “I’m not the guy I was when I first came here,” he said. “I am more sure of myself.” So too it seems is the woman he has in his mind’s eye. “She was maybe more seductive when she started,” he said, “but now she has grown up. She has much less to prove.”